DAY 2: KASANKA-SHOEBILL ISLAND (Tues 14th June)
We packed up and left the Kasanka campsite at 8.35 for a long day of driving. It was only about 140 kilometres or so that we had to travel to reach Shoebill Island, but the roads were indescribably bad. By 1pm we had only traveled 60 kilometres! The road was horrible and w e could only drive an average of about 25-30kph. It was also difficult driving in a 3-vehicle convoy with no way to contact each other (there was no mobile phone signal) and only one person (Heinrich) who knew exactly where we were going. There were several times that David and I were worried that we’d missed a turn somewhere and become separated from our group. There are no road signs in the African bush!
The narrow, bumpy road we followed wound its way through village after village, all the houses built along the road, an unusual sight here where usually a village is a cluster of houses set back a way from the road. As we passed, hordes of children would come flying out, their hands outstretched, screaming for handouts. "Sweeties! Sweeties! Water! Money, money, money! Give me pin (money)!" Sometimes they asked for candy (sweeties), or other times it was money, food, bread, cake, water. . . the list goes on and on. You can tell when you are following a route traveled by tourists. Some of the children even ran after the moving vehicles and jumped onto the tailgate, screaming. The irony was that, for all their begging, the villages we were passing through actually displayed signs of being well-off. The houses were made of brick, unlike the houses we are used to seeing in Eastern Province, and most of them were decorated very attractively either with painted bricks or with designs in the brickwork itself. Some even had flowers on the doorstep. There were schools and shops and even a motorbike. So you can see what happens when tourists decide to give free handouts without discretion. Even the adults we came across would brusquely demand money from us.
It was a back-breaking drive but we finally reached Shoebill Island and Bangwuele Wetlands at 15.45 – only to find out that it actually IS an “island”-- and we would have to unload all our camping equipment, leave our vehicles behind, and take a 45-minute boat ride to the campsite! Chaos ensued, of course, but eventually we managed to get most things sorted (forgetting a minimum of stuff) and get on the boats by 16.30.
They fit all 10 of us (6 adults, 4 children) and all our camping equipment in 2 long “banana boats”, each with 2 boatmen poling. We traveled through narrow waterways choked with water lilies, reeds, and different kinds of grasses and filled with numerous kinds of birdlife. Our boatmen pointed out various kinds of birds as we went along. The boat ride was relaxing and added to the sensation of being in the middle of nowhere! Shoebill Island seems very isolated – at the end of a dead-end road, only reachable by boat for 10 months out of the year. We floated by several small huts set back from the water’s edge where fishermen and their families live. There are no schools on the island – the children never learn to read or write, and when they grow up they become fishermen just like their father and grandfather before them. A few months out of every year some of the fishermen move their families to the village on the mainland to harvest cassava, and then they return to the waterways and fishnets. They travel using narrow wooden dugout canoes which look as though they will sink at any moment – skimming barely above the water-line.
We arrived at the campsite where there was a rectangular piece of grass cleared for our tents. The regular campsite was still under water, we were informed. We managed to get the tents up just before it got dark. Again, firewood and water for washing clothes and dishes were provided by the camp attendants, and they also let us borrow a grill so that we could barbeque (or braii, as the South Africans call it) over the campfire. We were given access to a bucket shower and a flush toilet but we were dependent on the attendants for water for washing, as there was no running water and we had brought a limited supply of clean drinking water. During the night we heard hippos and hyenas, and there were thousands of black letchwe (a kind of antelope) grazing everywhere. When David got up to visit the toilet in the middle of the night, he stepped out of the tent and spooked hundreds of them, sending them in wild flight into the water. The campsite was located right on the water with marshland all around. The full moon provided us with plenty of light at night, which was nice, since the Zwemstras had accidentally left their camping lights behind in the vehicle!




